Like most kids who Surf, my story started with a Surf obsessed father growing up in the Bay Area. My father had surfed nearly his whole life learning ocean safety and wave riding from my grandfather at their summer home on the Balboa Peninsula in Newport Beach during the early 50s. I think my dad had his own dreams of professional surfing that were forcefully passed down to me.
Many good memories rolling around ocean beach SF checking waves in his Volkswagen Van as a child. Our home was always filled with boards (surf and skate) and ding repair, design speeches, and surf films were daily occurrences. I was immediately hooked on the whole thing and eventually stood and rode my first wave at first jetty in Capitola CA at 4 years of age. Toys went in the trash and skate and surf ruled all.
Fast forward a few years and my first contest at the SCLU club invitational at the Lane. My dad had a large vintage longboard quiver my whole life so brushing up on my longboarding as a child was a constant. I particularly bonded with an opaque white Doug Haut bump that I planned to ride in the SCLU event. I was terrified and nervous, but dad always reassured me that I was capable of anything. Dad entered me in as a Novice where I was disqualified for being “too good”. I remember my Dad saying, see son, I told ya so and laughing. He was stoked that I was as good as he’d thought and that I possibly had a gift. It hurt at the time because I thought it was unfair and wanted a trophy to show all my skater friends in the city but as my Dad always said, “such is life”. It did, however, light a fire under me and gave me a lot of self-confidence at a very young age.
Life was a bit of a whirlwind with all the stuff Dad had planned for me. I started getting coaching from my hero, Isreal Paskowitz and received boards from Herbie Fletcher and D